Tiling Tricks

Getting Started
You'll need the following:

• spirit level
• 5x25cm battens for marking out tiles
• pincers for nipping off edges
• grouting squeegee
• spacer pegs
• measuring tape
• tile cutter
• adhesive spreader
• sponge

You may also need a tile saw for natural stone products, limestone, marble, granite, slate etc.

For the most professional finish you can also use the following accessories:

• tile edge profiles (available in coloured PVC and metal)
• bath/worktop seal
• re-formed movement joints and control joint profiles

Getting the Right Product for the Job

There are many different types of adhesive available on the market and we stock an extensive range of Dunlop adhesives and grouts. As all conditions vary, it's most important to ask our sales team for advice to make sure you're using the correct type.

Don't forget that time spent on proper preparation makes the fixing easier, quicker and ensures a better finish. Once again for detailed advice please speak to a member of our sales team.

Walls

You'll need a perfectly flat surface for tiling, so preparing the surface is vital.

Plaster
New plaster should be left for 4 weeks and be thoroughly dry before tiling. Old plaster is suitable provided it's sound.

Plasterboard
Plasterboard is suitable for tiling provided it's well supported and at least 12.5 mm thick.

Painted Surfaces
It's very important to make a detailed examination of the surface, as the permanent success of the installation depends on good adhesion between the paint and the surface to which it has been applied, and between any substrate and basic structure. Remove any old wall covering and flaking paint. Fill in old cracks and voids with filler. Ensure the surface to be tiled is smooth, clean and free from dust, dirt or grease.

Floors

Tiling onto concrete
New concrete must be at least 6 weeks old and thoroughly dry before fixing ceramic floor tiles. The surface must be smooth, flat and free from dirt and grease. Uneven surfaces can be improved with levelling compound.

Tiling onto wooden floors
Existing wooden floors must be rigid, stable and capable of supporting additional load without flexing and have sufficient ventilation beneath them. There are two basic alternative methods to follow:

(a) Overlay the existing timber with 15mm exterior grade plywood, which has been sealed. Fully screw down the plywood at 300mm intervals ensuring all junctions are supported by noggins or joists. Use a flexible adhesive.

(b) Overlay the existing timber with special plastic sheeting and use a flexible adhesive.

Tiling onto vinyl tiles
Existing vinyl tiles must be free of grease, polish etc, and firmly adhered to the subfloor. The surface of the vinyl tile must be primed and allowed to dry before spreading the adhesive. Also, an additive may be used with the adhesive.

Tiling onto quarries, glazed, unglazed tiles
Existing tiles must be clean, grease free and firmly adhered to the sub-floor. An additive should be used with adhesive and grout when tiling onto glazed tiles.

At The Tile Warehouse, we aim to carry in stock all the items you'll need to prepare surfaces for tiling.

Aftercare

With proper care and attention, a correctly installed, good quality ceramic floor tile should give you many years of trouble-free service. Grit is the biggest enemy of any floor material and a mat adjacent to doors is strongly recommended. For more detailed information about how to maintain your tiles, please ask a member of our sales team for advice, or take a look at our wide range of cleaning products.